Saint Laurent Goes for the Gold

The glow of Saint Laurent’s runway tonight was brighter than the illuminated Eiffel Tower that served as its backdrop. Under a slew of oversize chandeliers, the French fashion house ushered in a new era of opulence, all in gold. It was a collection worthy of Joan Collins-era Dynasty, but built for 2026. Safari silhouettes, oversize sleeves, and aviator-inspired jackets got a lit-from-within metallic treatment. Even the details were decked in gold: big buttons, sash belts, and shapely collars claimed the gilded hue. Hailey Bieber, Zoë Kravitz, Post Malone, and Rosé sat front row, while fellow designers Donatella Versace and Pierpaolo Piccioli were there to show support.

The saturated shades ranged from yellowy 24K to deeper, antique pigments. These huge, billowing organza gowns and velvet jackets with big gold buttons and distinct sheer bows also had a serious 1980s flair. That itself is no surprise, since creative director Anthony Vaccarello often pulls from the archives and history of the brand. The show notes cited a quote from Yves Saint Laurent: “I love gold; it’s a magical color. When reflecting a woman, it’s the color of the sun.”

Still, Vaccarello loves intentional repetition, especially of late. Here, we saw him flex his muscles and demonstrate all the ways gowns, jackets, skirt sets, and coats could be transformed in gold. What kept the collection from skewing into monotony were all the tactile textiles, so ornately exemplary of their kind that you could almost feel them from far away. Disco-worthy lamé and latex were coated in a thick layer of gold leaf for an almost bejeweled effect. Guipure lace and brocades may be intricate on their own, but when drenched and dripped in gold, they stand above and beyond the usual.

Crinkled effects, oversize jackets worn open, hulking chandelier earrings, and bejeweled turbans were other deliberate touches that anchored the aesthetic of excess.

Tonight, Vaccarello celebrated 10 years at the house, where he has redefined Saint Laurent as his own while paying homage to Yves and never missing a beat. In his Saint Laurent world, the shoulders are strong, the going-out dress never left, and everything is golden.

Kristen Bateman is a contributing editor at Harper’s Bazaar. Her first fashion article was published in Vogue Italia during her junior year of high school. Since then, she has interned and contributed to WWD, Glamour, Lucky, i-D, Marie Claire and more. She created and writes the #ChicEats column and covers fashion and culture for Bazaar. When not writing, she follows the latest runway collections, dyes her hair to match her mood, and practices her Italian in hopes of scoring 90% off Prada at the Tuscan outlets. She loves vintage shopping, dessert and cats.