Playful, Nostalgic, and High Fashion: Welcome to Baby-Doll Fall

Playful, Nostalgic, and High Fashion: Welcome to Baby-Doll Fall


Marc Jacobs has long treasured a sense of childlike wonder (at his spring 2024 show, models walked like stiff paper dolls underneath a towering sculpture of a folding table and chairs), but this year’s collection took the dress-up theme to new heights. Back in February, models sauntered down the runway wearing puffed-up proportions, Betty Boop–coded pumps, and fabric appliqués—in varying shades of “Pat McGrath red”—fastened to their lips and cheeks as if they were plucked out of a toy chest. Days later, we clocked clustered, spiky lashes at Thom Browne and Cucculelli Shaheen, “rubber lips” at Gabe Gordon, and at Christian Cowan, ’60s beehive wigs with polished, flared ends akin to a retro Barbie. As we dashed from show to show, furiously scribbling down notes for our imminent F/W 25 beauty trend report, we knew one thing for sure: This fall, we’ll be getting all dolled up.

Runway shows may pave the way for trends, but the everyday sidewalks cement them—and user behavior certainly reflects the doll-like wave: ’60s baby-doll blush took center stage (hi, Sabrina Carpenter), flipped bobs officially reached peak popularity, and exaggerated cut creases once again picked up steam. Love it or loathe it, a baby-doll fall is well on its way, and artists are eager to play pretend.