From Lane Bryant to Prada: The Journey of Plus-Size Fashion in High-End Style | The Curvy Fashionista

From Lane Bryant to Prada: The Journey of Plus-Size Fashion in High-End Style | The Curvy Fashionista


Origins: Lane Bryant Pioneers Plus-Size (1920s–1950s)

Origins: Lane Bryant Pioneers Plus-Size (1920s–1950s) (image credits: flickr)

Lane Bryant began as a maternity-wear brand and soon introduced dedicated plus-size lines, coining and legitimizing the term. It created the first real foundation for inclusive fashion.

The brand’s revolutionary approach wasn’t just about creating bigger sizes. They understood that plus-size women needed clothes that actually fit their bodies properly, not just stretched versions of smaller garments. This insight would become the cornerstone of what we now recognize as true size inclusivity.

What started as a necessity for expectant mothers evolved into something much bigger. Lane Bryant recognized that women of all sizes deserved clothing that made them feel confident and beautiful, not just covered.

Luxury Enters the Fray: Marina Rinaldi (1980s)

Luxury Enters the Fray: Marina Rinaldi (1980s) (image credits: By thebrandery at Flickr, CC BY 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=30627297)
Luxury Enters the Fray: Marina Rinaldi (1980s) (image credits: By thebrandery at Flickr, CC BY 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=30627297)

Max Mara’s Marina Rinaldi was the first luxury label dedicated to plus-size women, proving that inclusivity could exist in the aspirational, high-fashion world.

This wasn’t just another clothing line throwing together oversized versions of existing designs. Marina Rinaldi brought genuine Italian craftsmanship and attention to detail to plus-size fashion. The quality of fabrics, construction, and design philosophy matched what you’d expect from any premium fashion house.

The brand’s success sent shockwaves through the luxury fashion world. Suddenly, other high-end labels had to confront an uncomfortable question: why weren’t they serving this market too?

Designer Collaborations: Curvy Meets Couture

Designer Collaborations: Curvy Meets Couture (image credits: Marina Rinaldi, CC BY-SA 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=24788795)
Designer Collaborations: Curvy Meets Couture (image credits: Marina Rinaldi, CC BY-SA 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=24788795)

Collaborations between designers and plus-size retailers blurred boundaries, showing that curvy women deserved access to couture-level creativity and innovation.

These partnerships weren’t charity projects or afterthoughts. Top designers began to see plus-size collaborations as genuine creative challenges that pushed them to think differently about proportion, silhouette, and construction techniques.

The results often surprised everyone involved. Designers discovered that creating for curves required a completely different skill set, one that many found creatively energizing rather than limiting.

Iconic Campaigns: Empowerment Through Visibility

Iconic Campaigns: Empowerment Through Visibility (image credits: Marina Rinaldi, CC BY-SA 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=24788794)
Iconic Campaigns: Empowerment Through Visibility (image credits: Marina Rinaldi, CC BY-SA 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=24788794)

Campaigns with plus-size models challenged narrow beauty standards, turning representation into a tool for empowerment and reshaping cultural conversations.

These weren’t just marketing stunts designed to grab headlines. The campaigns featured plus-size models in genuinely aspirational settings, wearing clothes that celebrated their bodies rather than hiding them. The imagery was powerful because it was authentic.

The cultural impact extended far beyond fashion magazines. These campaigns started conversations in living rooms, boardrooms, and design studios around the world about who gets to be considered beautiful and fashionable.

Mainstream Pushback and Tokenism

Mainstream Pushback and Tokenism (image credits: wikimedia)
Mainstream Pushback and Tokenism (image credits: wikimedia)

Despite progress, runways still overwhelmingly feature straight-size models. The underrepresentation reveals how much of the industry still engages in token gestures rather than true inclusivity.

Many fashion weeks continue to showcase predominantly size zero models, with perhaps one or two plus-size models thrown in for appearances. This approach feels more like checking a diversity box than genuine commitment to representing real women’s bodies.

The disconnect between marketing campaigns celebrating body positivity and actual runway representation remains stark. It’s become increasingly obvious when brands are being genuine versus when they’re just following trends.

Prada’s Stance: Traditions vs. Transformation

Prada
Prada’s Stance: Traditions vs. Transformation (image credits: unsplash)

Prada remains hesitant to embrace plus-size fashion, offering limited sizes and highlighting the tension between heritage luxury values and modern demands for inclusivity.

The Italian house represents the old guard of luxury fashion, where exclusivity has traditionally meant excluding certain body types. Their resistance to expanding size ranges reflects a broader industry struggle between maintaining traditional luxury positioning and evolving with social expectations.

This stance has become increasingly controversial as younger consumers demand that their favorite brands reflect their values. Prada’s approach feels particularly dated when compared to newer luxury brands that launch with inclusive sizing from day one.

Contemporary Champions: Beyond Luxury Norms

Contemporary Champions: Beyond Luxury Norms (image credits: Ashley Graham at SI Swim City 2016 with Arthur Kade at 00:05, cropped, CC BY 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=60734676)
Contemporary Champions: Beyond Luxury Norms (image credits: Ashley Graham at SI Swim City 2016 with Arthur Kade at 00:05, cropped, CC BY 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=60734676)

Figures like Ashley Graham and Remi Bader expand plus-size fashion into accessible, stylish, and widely available spaces, ensuring inclusivity isn’t limited to high-end labels.

These influencers have built their platforms by showing that style isn’t dependent on size or budget. They’ve demonstrated how to make fashion work for real bodies, mixing high-end pieces with accessible finds in ways that feel authentic and achievable.

Their impact goes beyond just showing clothes. They’ve created communities where plus-size women can share styling tips, discover new brands, and feel supported in their fashion journeys.

Industry Momentum: What Comes Next?

Industry Momentum: What Comes Next? (image credits: unsplash)
Industry Momentum: What Comes Next? (image credits: unsplash)

The plus-size journey has stretched from functional beginnings to cultural statements. The future depends on whether luxury brands adopt real, systemic inclusivity rather than occasional statements.

The momentum seems to be building toward a tipping point where size inclusivity becomes as expected as seasonal collections. Brands that continue to resist may find themselves increasingly irrelevant to younger consumers who see diversity as non-negotiable.

What started with Lane Bryant’s practical approach to dressing women’s bodies has evolved into a fundamental challenge to how the fashion industry defines beauty, luxury, and accessibility. The question now isn’t whether change will happen, but which brands will lead it and which will be left behind.



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Kevin Harson

I am an editor for VanityFair Fashion, focusing on business and entrepreneurship. I love uncovering emerging trends and crafting stories that inspire and inform readers about innovative ventures and industry insights.

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