Skip to content
Vanity Fair Fashion
Fashion

Forget Minimalism—At Prada, Pastel Coats, Frankenstein Skirts, and (Lots of) Jewels Marked a New Era in Fashion

By Swedan Margen

Forget Minimalism—At Prada, Pastel Coats, Frankenstein Skirts, and (Lots of) Jewels Marked a New Era in Fashion

It's Prada day, which means that fashion people all over the world came together, no matter what time it was, to bear witness to Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons' latest creations as they made their debut. I watched the show from the steps of Prada's SoHo store among Parsons students, as well as editors, stylists, and influencers who didn't travel to Milan this season. Our editorial director, Lauren Eggertsen, viewed the unveiling from Fondazione Prada, the art institution where the Italian house holds its runway show every season. Many more watched from their iPhones or laptop screens, zooming in on every last detail and taking screenshots to inspect later.

The Prada show is always a look into the future. During it, you'll rarely see anything similar to what other brands are debuting. It's always fresh and different, and it paints a picture of what fashion will soon look like. The biggest takeaway from spring/summer 2026 is that minimalism will soon be ushered out of the spotlight, making room for louder (yet still refined) aesthetics to take the stage. Clashing combinations of orange, purple, red, and pink will replace muted neutrals in our spring wardrobes. At the same time, eccentric accessories, like satin opera gloves, colorful drop earrings made with oversized gemstones, and rhinestone-crusted pumps, will soon take over from calmer alternatives.

As a result, a sense of serenity didn't blanket viewers like it does at some shows. Instead, everyone seeing the collection for the first time appeared to be taken over, filled with inspiration, and invigorated about the future of fashion. "People seemed to really love it," Eggertsen told me over Slack post-show. "Everyone was excited and chatty and cheering!" New eras will have that effect.

Meet the Frankenstein Skirt

You might be wondering what a Frankenstein skirt is right about now. Well, let me tell you. Essentially, it's a silhouette only Prada could make chic, wherein multiple different skirts appear to have been stitched together, creating a patchwork-like creation. The brand debuted a more tailored and pared-back version of this in its fall/winter 2024 show, with backless skirts meant to be styled both frontwards and backwards with a bevy of different slip skirts underneath that you could mix and match with your mood. For spring/summer 2026, it appears that you have fewer options to change up your skirts, but instead, should embrace the intentional chaos of having part of a ruffled, orange taffeta skirt attached to a lace slip, among other materials and styles. Another version saw a model donning a gray, satin, pleated midi skirt that also featured a pink, tiered taffeta skirt. Why choose one piece when you can have them all?

A Prada model wearing a Frankenstein skirt in the S/S 26 show.
A Prada model wearing a Frankenstein skirt in the S/S 26 show.

Miuccia and Raf are Bejewelling Again

There was a time when rhinestones and jewels always made an appearance at Prada (and Miu Miu!), but it's been a while since such decadent detail-work has played a role in the brand's collections. They're back for spring/summer 2026, though, with pearl-encrusted collars showing up on heavy-satin tunics and colorful baubles appearing on square-neck tops worn on top of buttoned-to-the-top shirts. Even the kitten heels got the rhinestone treatment, with diamond drippings hanging off the backs of many of the collection's pumps like just-married signs on the back of a pristine vintage car.

A model walking in the Prada SS26 show wearing a satin shift dress with a jewel collar and a leather jacket.
A model walking in the Prada SS26 show wearing a white button-down shirt under a square-neck bejewelled top with a turquoise satin skirt.

Car Coats For Spring

If you thought car coats were big for fall, just wait until you see the options Prada presented for spring 2026. From old-school Prada options in cool khaki shades to pastel-painted leather versions that could turn any outfit into a statement, every type of car coat you could ever want made the cut. This outerwear staple is beloved for its simple design—a knee-length hem combines with a single-breasted closure to create a top layer that's easy, timeless, and practical. Raf and Miuccia, of course, made them their own, though, particularly through styling, pairing them with bold skirts and long gloves in shocking hues.

A Prada model wearing a Frankenstein skirt in the S/S 26 show.
A model at the Prada SS26 show wearing a pink leather car coat with orange gloves.

Deep Vs, Coaches Jackets, and Polo Collars Add a Tinge of Prep

It appeared at Prada that the preppy trend we first reported on following Michael Rider's debut at Celine back in July was no passing fad. Instead, preppy codes are continuing to show up in the lead-up to spring 2026, with unique takes on polo collars in primary colors being paired with tiny, peach-colored briefs debuting at today's show, as well as bright-yellow coaches jackets styled with button-down shirts and deep V-neck sweaters tucked into suspender skirts. Low-profile suede sneakers that gave off an almost boat-shoe vibe, oversized glasses, and Peter Pan collars attached to faded-leather coats only added to the preppy energy reverberating through Fondazione Prada.

More Fashion