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Berluti Fall 2026 Menswear Collection

By Kevin Harson

Berluti Fall 2026 Menswear Collection

The preview at Berluti’s store on Rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré during Paris fashion week was framed as a seasonal check-in rather than a radical new proposition, but the brand still had plenty of newness to showcase.

To wit: a bold new range of boots. The Rombo, a robust bikerish boot rising midway up the calf, was the bravest of the new footwear offering, alongside a fresh take on the Alessio shoe that had been reimagined into a Chelsea-style ankle boot. The new footwear lent this collection a welcome toughness that spoke to menswear’s military mood, bringing a contemporary dimension to Berluti’s mode of masculine elegance.

The jewel tones of greens, reds and blues that come through in Berluti’s patina leather pieces provide a subtle flair that sets the brand apart. This time they included what the brand called a fiamma (flame) patina, on a mandarin collar jacket, as well as a dash of dusty pink cashmere. Another key piece was a deep brown flight jacket with a surprising weightlessness that had been achieved through an advanced skiving process, as well as a plush shearling blouson in a pleasing shade of rust that won this reviewer over for how preposterously comfortable and flattering it felt to wear.

The most notable newness in the ready-to-wear, however, came in the round-collared Forestière work jacket: reintroduced by the brand two seasons ago, it will now come in a full suit. The ridged suede iteration in a soft blue made for a clear red carpet proposition—celebrity stylists take note. Trousers, in cream corduroy and slate wools, were also noticeably wider in a move away from the slimmer silhouettes that conservative menswear has drifted towards in recent years. It marked a subtle but deliberate shift that speaks to Berluti’s ability to bend to the tastes of the times—you don’t stay in business for 130 years without a knack for reading the room, after all.

Originally published by vogue.com. Syndicated material does not necessarily reflect the views of Vanity Fair Fashion.

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