Retinol Alternatives: What to Use Instead of Retinol, According to an Esthetician

Retinol is one of those skincare ingredients that tends to sit in a league of its own. If you’ve spent any time in the world of skincare, you’ll know they’re often spoken about in slightly reverent tones—and for good reason. Derived from vitamin A, retinoids work by accelerating skin cell turnover and supporting collagen production, which is why they’re so commonly recommended for concerns like fine lines, uneven texture, breakouts and pigmentation. They essentially encourage the skin to behave more like a “younger” version of itself, gradually refining and resurfacing over time.

But as effective as it is, retinol is not always an easy fit. In reality, it can be quite a commitment, and as an aesthetician, I’m increasingly asked about “retinol alternatives” from clients who either can’t tolerate retinoids or simply don’t want to use them. The adjustment period alone—referred to as retinisation—can involve dryness, peeling, redness, increased breakouts and general sensitivity while the skin builds tolerance. And for some people, that simply isn’t a journey they want to take. Others may not be able to use them at all, including those who are pregnant or breastfeeding, or anyone with a compromised skin barrier or highly reactive skin.

“Someone might avoid retinol because it can cause dryness, redness, peeling or irritation, especially for sensitive skin,” says dermatologist Sonia Khorana. “It’s also often avoided during pregnancy, and some people find the increased sun sensitivity or the need for a gradual introduction annoying.”

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Naturally, this has created a market for so-called “retinol alternatives”—a phrase that’s become something of a skincare buzzword in recent years. “A ‘retinol alternative’ is an ingredient that aims to provide some of retinol’s benefits—such as improving the appearance of fine lines, texture, or uneven tone but with a lower risk of irritation or sensitivity,” explains Khorana. “The exact benefits and effectiveness can vary depending on the ingredient, but I don’t personally like this wording as nothing is comparable to retinol.”